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Now that we have picking the dog out of the way, and the does and don'ts of getting a well suited dog, we can go onto the first weeks home. As with any living creature, each dog or puppy will take things differently and in different strides, however this article will be assuming you have dodged all the bullets and chosen a well bred, well mannered dog/puppy, with no pre-existing behavioral issues. A clean slate to work with and mold info your perfect family dog. But no worries - there will be a second article on this, for if things didn’t go quite as smoothly, and some hiccups were encountered. For now though, we will focus on this ideal scenario. The most important things during this time, is crate training, not flooding the dog, and if other animals or children are present in the home, introducing them properly. This is functionally the same as introducing them to anything, or socializing them. On leash greetings are not ideal Dogs who are forced to greet something or someone on leash, are automatically more stressed and have a higher state of arousal than dogs who greet things off leash. Typically owners are afraid to allow them to greet off leash because they are fearful of the dog getting overexcited, or displaying aggression. However, if that is a concern, the dog or dogs should be trained separately before attempting to formally introduce. A leash hinders how the dog would normally and naturally communicate, and can lead to miscommunications with other dogs as well. Encourage neutrality When the time does come to formally introduce the dog to another member of the family, do not encourage extreme friendliness. Often, new pet parents get excited when they see the dog start wagging their tail, jumping, licking. Hurrah! The dog likes the other person/pet! However, remember that you have years for the dog to build a bond and connect with who you are introducing them to. Right now you want to reward calm. If you encourage arousal in the early meeting stages, reward it, then it will become a learned response. Just the same as if strangers give your dog treats when on a walk, they will become excited whenever they see someone pass by them. Some dogs will become wise to the human stealthily giving the stranger a treat, but not all will. It's an ingrained response, and likely you will end up with a jumpy, badly behaved dog. That’s one of the last things you want with a young child, or older (or just disgruntled) pet. Engage and Disengage This is a crucial exercise for dogs new to a home. Learning when to engage with their surroundings, and when to engage with you. If it is a new puppy who does not know their name yet, this is where you begin teaching it. If your new dog already had a name they understand, or other commands, it's best to practice training “look” with high-value toys and treats, and low-value distractions to set the dog up for success. One of the most important factors with this step, is learning how to properly use hold, use, and think about a leash. It is one of the most underrated and misunderstood training tools - so much so many people forget it even is a training tool! Something as simple as a trainer teaching you how to use your dogs leash, can make a huge difference in behavior. Time Without Stimulation As humans, it’s natural for us to want to constantly pacify our dogs. Whether it be going for a walk, throwing a ball, or giving them a bone to chew on, our dogs are constantly flooded with stimulus. However, that can create many different issues:
And many other, complex issues that cannot simply be listed in bullet-point fashion. Needless to say, dogs, and puppies especially need intermittent downtime without games, toys, or people to distract. Even if your dog appears to “never stop going”, they still have the sleeping needs in addition to their exercise needs. It’s up to you, the owner to enforce both, and not just one, in order to create a well balanced dog. These are some of the basics to get you well on your way with training. For further tips and tricks, make sure to follow us on social media. And if you have any specific issues you'd like discussed, you can email at [email protected]. Hope these tips can help a new pet parent and answer some of the questions they may have!
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Recovering From Covid: Buying A Puppy10/19/2020 Now that we've discussed adopting a new dog, let's talk about buying a puppy from a breeder. With everything going on currently, puppy scams are through the roof, and unethical breeders are going into overdrive to produce dollar sign puppies. So there's much to worry about when choosing a new addition to your family. This installment is specifically about puppies, the next article will be on rehoming an older dog or puppy from someone other than a breeder. Before we discuss how to suss out a bad breeder, let's talk about why buying from good breeders benefits everybody. Supporting people who keep dogs out of shelters Unethical breeders will not continue to follow up, or have options implemented, so that if you decide to rehome the dog, the dog runs away or gets lost, or any other circumstance, the dog does not end up in the adoption system. An ethical breeder should always have some sort of provision for their dogs, whether it be taking the dog back as an adult, or a microchip with the breeder’s contact information, so it does not end up in a shelter system. Better health and behavior An ethical breeder health tests, and only breeds healthy dogs that pass all of the health tests. This doesn't mean your dog getting these diseases or issues is impossible, but it's dramatically reduced. However, make sure not to equate purebred=healthy, and the same goes for mixed breeds. Make sure the breeder can provide all the papers of vet visits, test results, and any other relevant information. The saying "mixed breeds are healthier" is false. It does have some logic behind it - mixed breed dogs have a greater genetic diversity, so genetic diseases or mutations are less likely to occur. The likelihood of two carrier dogs being bred together is lower, but not nonexistent. That said, any ethical breeder will already know if the parent dogs are carriers for many genetic diseases, because that would be a part of the various tests they do. Mixed breeds, however, have a much more unpredictable baseline for behavior, coat, and susceptibility to health issues. Unlike with a purebred where you will know what to expect, mixed breeds, even of the exact same mix, and the exact same parents, can be very different. One litter could be very well behaved, and docile, and the breeder gets a reputation for being highly recommended, but then the very next litter is erratic much higher energy. Make sure to research all of the breeds individually, as well as together, and ask for the names of previous owners. Shutting down puppy mills Although your contribution may seem small and insignificant, you are helping to shut down puppy mills, pet stores with puppies, and various unethical breeders. The less demand, the less they will breed, and the less dogs end up in shelters, or euthanized for being improperly placed. It can be tempting to buy from a cheap breeder, because you can’t afford a $1000 dog, however the saying “buying the dog is the cheapest part” is very true. The food, health bills, toys, housing, and paying for dog sitting will be much more expensive over the dog’s lifespan. Now let's talk about some of the red flags when looking for breeders. Offering pick of the litter Just like in the last article about adopting a dog, breeders should not be allowing you to choose your own dog, unless you are an experienced working dog or show dog handler. They should be matching the puppy based on your lifestyle, how many members there are in your household, other pets, children, and various other factors. This also contributes to keeping dogs out of shelters, and may prevent future accidents, such as reactivity, aggression and hyperactivity caused by lack of stimulation, overstimulation, or going to a bad situation. Charging more for "pretty" colorsAny breeder who is charging more for beautiful colors, such as blue merle, red merle, liver, or silver, is likely breeding for appearance and not quality. There is nothing wrong with these colors, or breeding parents of these colors. And in addition, there is a small chance a breeder will get dogs of these colors in some litters, even if the parents don’t have the same coat. However, if it is posed as an upgrade from the "regular" puppies as opposed to an endeavor to make non-standard colors healthier and more accepted, it's a huge red flag for where the breeder's priority lies. The same goes for eye colors. Some breeders charge more for blue eyes, heterochromia (eyes two different colors) or gold, which have been found to have correlation, but not necessarily causation, with various different health and behavioral issues. They don’t allow house visits This one can get very tricky in a time like this, when visiting others’ homes, especially strangers is heavily discouraged. However, even now, breeders should have some sort of accommodations for visiting the puppies in their home. The environment the mother, as well as the puppies live in will affect their health, and even their future temperament. Dogs raised in bad situations have been shown to have higher incidences of anxiety later in life, and can cause issues with fear reactivity. They can’t give you details on previous generationsAn ethical breeder should always have information on not only the parents, but the grand parents, great grandparents, and so on. If they don’t, it can be a sign they just picked up any dogs off of facebook or from the shelter, did little to no research, and proceeded to breed them. This is obviously unacceptable and means even if the parents are sweet, every single puppy will be a gamble on its temperament, or if any genetic aggression will pop up. Have no contract Any good breeder will have a contract that often requires the dog is returned to the breeder if anything comes up, and that they are not able to be bred. A breeder who does not have such a contract, again, is likely contributing to the shelter system. Even if only one puppy out of every litter they produce ends up in the shelter, that can easily be into the dozens if they over-breed, or have multiple dams. In addition a no-breeding clause stops more puppies from being produced, another litter of dogs that could potentially wind up at a rescue. These are some basics for sussing out a good breeder. However, there is something that needs to be noted - these tips do NOT apply to accidental litters. Accidental litters do not come with the same high quality standard as purposefully bred dogs, may or may not have the pedigrees, health testing, or other information that you would get from a breeder. It’s important to differentiate true accidental litters, from secret backyard breeders, who have repeated “accidental” litters. The bonus to buying a dog from an accidental litter however, is unlike buying from a breeder, you are almost certainly keeping a dog out of the shelter. Typically they get transferred there immediately after they are old enough to be adopted, and no other buyers have been found. They will also be exponentially cheaper as well, and possibly free if the owner truly cannot afford to keep the puppies. However, I must stress again that you have no idea what temperament, health condition, or appearance dog you are getting unless the owner can provide papers for both parents. As well as being on high alert that you are not accidentally supporting a puppy mill, disguised as an accidental litter. It's also important to choose a breed that reflects your lifestyle, whether it be purebred or a mixed breed. You can contact us @dandidogservices or [email protected] for breed recommendations based on what YOU need. And as always, you can reach out to us if anything needs clarification at 1-506-321-4133.
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Recovering From Covid: Adopting A Dog9/23/2020 Many people and families have decided during this social distancing time, to add a new member of the family. Their new furry friend to keep them company, and keep them busy and going on walks. A perfect time for puppy raising, when many have the capability to work from home, or time off of work entirely! However, there are huge problems in the dog world, when it comes to buying or rescuing puppies. Whether you're "adopt don't shop", or support ethical preservation of a breed, there are inevitable risks to both, and it's very easy to get something you didn't bargain for. As things slowly go back to normal, I've started making a series of articles, to help those who are recovering from Covid, with an existing pet or a new one. The first installment covered separation anxiety, something that will inevitably affect many, going from being home 24/7, to going back to work. These next few installments will be directed at ones who haven't gotten their new companions yet, and are looking for the best way to do so. This article will be on adopting shelter and rescue dogs, and the next will be on buying from a breeder. Adopting A DogOne of the biggest risks in adopting a dog, is that the shelter is deceptive or dishonest in the true nature of the dog. They use cutesy and creative ways, to describe serious and disruptive issues. One of the biggest boons you can have, is being able to read between the lines in their description of the dog. Here are some red flags, and why they are red flags.
Describing the dog from the dog's point of view We've all seen it before, while browsing through a local rescue page. "Hi! I'm Lilah, and I just arrived from a kill shelter in Texas! I'm a very friendly girl, and I sometimes get super excited to see people! I'm very wiggly and can't resist seeing other dogs! But I don't need a brother or sister, I'm a princess who needs all the attention!" An average reader might see that, and saw aw! What a cute and sweet puppy. But if you learn to decode the language, you get: "Hi! I'm Lilah! I was likely surrendered to a kill shelter for attacking another dog, but that information wasn't disclosed to the current rescue. I'm very people reactive and pull on walks, and dog reactive as well! I'm also territorial or possibly aggressive, and want to be the only dog because I have not been trained". Now that's a much more sinister message, and it may be assuming the worst. Maybe she is just an extremely friendly, happy dog who doesn't pull at all! But it likely isn't what the average pet owner is looking for. Uses colorful language to describe issues This goes hand in hand with the above point. If they describe dog reactive as "she can't contain herself around dogs", or in any way tries to put it in a positive light, there's an increased chance you will receive a bite risk dog without it being disclosed to you. Never mention a trainer or behaviorist These two things are crucial for rescue and shelter dogs. Any dog in a kennel situation, is not the same dog it would be in a home. Behaviorists need to assess the dog, and trainers need to help the staff work through issues. Many rescues don't have either of these things, which cause many dogs to slip through the cracks without being properly temperament tested. So this is a question to ask the staff members, before considering adopting a dog from them. Very limited questions about you If the shelter or rescue isn't interested in your hobbies, activity level, or capability to care for the dog, you will inevitably get matched with a dog who is not suited for you. Often very drivey, working breeds such as Australian cattle dog, border collies, and even Malinois go to very relaxed homes, and subsequently get returned. Energy levels are not as simple as low, medium, and high. There are different kinds of energy based on breed, and individual dogs. Many families agree to a high energy dog, thinking they will get the lab or the poodle type of energy, but instead they get a terrier or a shepherd type of energy. Read the contract With all of the above information, some rescue contracts will get you stuck with an ill-fitting, or worse, an aggressive dog because of their contract. If they forbid rehoming, selling, relocating, or surrendering to another shelter in ANY circumstances, it's a red flag. Often, they cannot immediately take back the dog, as it isn't as simple as shoving them back into a kennel. If you simply find the dog isn't a good match for you, that likely wouldn't be such a big issue. However, if the dog is a genuine threat to a human or another animal, and you legally cannot relocate it in any way, it becomes a huge liability. Read the contract thoroughly, and if you're confused on any front, ask them about it. If they seem to dodge the question or can't clearly articulate it, don't sign the agreement. These are only some basic ways to avoid trouble when adopting a dog. There are many other factors to consider, but following these tips can save a lot of grief, or a lot of hospital bills! If anything needs clarified, you can email [email protected] for more information, or check out our social media @dandidogservices.
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Everyone wants the best for their pets, but sometimes the things that make them happiest aren’t always the best things for them. A prime example of this, is having the entire family home virtually, and perhaps literally 24/7. With things on the road to getting better, many have had to resume their jobs in order to support themselves, but that jarring switch from stay-at-home to working part or full time, is extremely distressing for dogs. So for those who are looking to make that switch soon, here are some tips to make the transition smoother and less stressful. Crate Training This is something that’s typically stressed when bringing home a brand new puppy, but its beneficial at absolutely any age! Any dog can be crate trained regardless of how old they are, the only thing that changes are the recommended hours they’re crated, and the comforts they require while in the crate. Water, food, blankets, and toys are all a consideration that should be discussed with a vet as well as a trainer who knows your dog’s situation. Toys can pose a risk of choking to many dogs, if they choose to destroy them, so do not place any in the crate without consulting with someone. Crate training (or reinstating crate training, if they are already trained) will help communicate to the dog that boundaries are still in place for where they can be, and when they can be there. It protects the dog from getting into dangerous objects or substances that could potentially kill them, and is a must if your dog is displaying separation anxiety when you leave. Dedicated Dog Time Since we want to wean the dog off expecting you to be available constantly, we want to make sure we also supplement it with dedicated play and training time. Crating or time away shouldn’t be a punishment, but rather a break where you can both have some time away from each other, and the best time to implement that is after some good bonding time. Whether it be playing fetch, going for a jog, or grooming, make sure it’s something enjoyable for both of you to maximize the benefits. This surge of endorphins will help imprint positive feelings onto separation time. Don’t Make It A Big Deal You’ve likely heard this one before since it’s such popular crate training advice. The more you amp up your dog in the moments before leaving, the more stressed they will be once you go out the door. It’s better to keep a calm demeanor and your dog will reflect it. The same goes for coming home - The bigger of a deal you make it, the bigger of a deal it will feel like to them! Start Small You don’t want to go straight to leaving them inside for 8 hours, as this can seriously damage your dog’s trust in you. Rather work up to length slowly, for however long it takes your dog. For some dogs it will only take a week, for others it could take up to a couple months to help them fully grasp that alone time isn’t a negative thing, especially if it’s been used as a punishment before Make Sure It’s Properly Diagnosed Something with a name like “Separation Anxiety” seems like it would be cut and dry, and not require a professional’s diagnoses right? But many dogs are improperly labeled as having separation anxiety, when in truth they have something much less sinister and much easier to treat. Not every dog who barks when you leave has clinical separation anxiety - they could have general anxiety, they could be in isolation distress, they could not have the materials they need while you’re gone and are trying to warn you. Ultimately it’s better to get an assessment than to start throwing improper training techniques at your dog, and risking worsening their symptoms. Assign Sentences To Timeframes If your dog is not destructive, but just gets antsy after a certain length of time, it will help to assign sentences relative to how long you’ll be gone. Most pet dogs recognize “I’m going to work” as you will be gone for the majority of the day, while “I’m heading to the store” elicits a much weaker response. If your dog is ok for 2 to 3 hours, but starts panicking after 4 or 5, maybe your schedule is too unpredictable for them to understand when you’ll be gone for a long time, and when you’ll only be a few minutes. In this case adding a signature sentence can greatly reduce discomfort every time you leave. Just make sure you give him adequate time to recognize and learn the new sentences before seeing any results, and keep an eye out for worsening symptoms. If explicitly telling your dog how long you will be gone for elicits a more panicked response than before, you may need to go back to square one. If you need more assistance with helping your dog overcome stress when you leave, you can contact us on any of our social media accounts, or at [email protected]
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Let's Talk About Prongs11/17/2019 So… prong collars. |